Different This Time

For my hike at Mount Rainier this summer, I chose a familiar trail and came away with a new view of it.

In 2016, I hiked the trail at Rampart Ridge near Longmire. The experience stayed with me as one of my favorite places at Mount Rainier National Park. In fact, it made such an impression on me that I blogged about it here. The one thing that trip lacked was a view of the mountain. Heavy clouds that made for a misty, mystical hike also concealed Rainier, creating an opportunity for a return visit and a fresh look at Rampart Ridge.

This year's hike started out much like the one three years ago. When we arrived at Longmire, clouds covered Mount Rainier. Even as we reached one of the viewpoints on the ridge, the mountain remained hidden. However, the sun had started to break through in places, hinting that better views might appear soon. We stayed at the viewpoint a while, and the very top of the mountain began to show. With another viewpoint ahead, we resumed the hike.

The clearing view of Mount Rainier from Rampart Ridge.

Upon reaching the second viewpoint, the familiar trail looked altogether different from what I remembered. Last time, the clouds hugged the top of the ridge, making everything feel close. This time, the expanse across Kautz Creek had opened up to reveal sections of the mountain. The trend was clear: The clouds would soon leave the view entirely untrammeled, so we sat, ate lunch, and watched the entirety of the mountain emerge. By the time the wind had blown away the last of the clouds, it was hard to believe that we had been to that very spot before. What a spectacular view the clouds had kept secret!

It was a long hike (three years) to get that view of Mount Rainier from Rampart Ridge, but I ended up with two very different ways of knowing the trail.

Partly to Perfectly Cloudy

A misty morning on Rampart Ridge.

I've seen a lot more of clouds than of mountains this summer, and I couldn't be happier about it.

The Pacific Northwest is known for its clouds. Even the summers, which are normally pretty dry, typically see their fair share of cloudy days. Last summer, that wasn't the case though. The stifling heat that baked the region also burned off the clouds, making for a seemingly endless string of bright, sunny days and clear views of the mountains. Although those views were nice, the unusual weather grew old. That's why I have no complaints about my cloudy experiences with the mountains this year.

The clouds have defined my hikes at, near, and on Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood, and Mount Rainier in 2016. In fact, I'd go so far as to say they have made those experiences perfect. The most recent hike was on the Rampart Ridge Trail near Longmire at Mount Rainier. We had heavy cloud cover for the whole hike, but the trail and the conditions could not have been better suited for each other.

Rampart Ridge (the Ramparts for short) formed from a lava flow off the mountain, but it is below the tree line, so unlike some other hikes on Mount Rainier, it is covered by forest, including some massive old-growth trees at the lower levels. Even on clear days, the trail along the ridge has only a few clear views of the mountain. That's okay because the forest is the real show. Our cloudy day made sure we remembered that.

Within the trees, we found a lively, colorful ecosystem. The undergrowth, glowing green with moss and vine maple, housed Douglas squirrels and birds. We heard the haunting calls of varied thrushes and saw cute wildflowers and fungi. Then, there were the clouds. We hiked high enough to meet them and were fortunate to walk through their mist. At one of the open areas, we looked across Kautz Creek to see Pyramid Peak shrouded in fog. We also received a visit from a gray jay. As we moved through the old growth sentries near the end of the hike, we came upon a barred owl.

The clouds never let us see Mount Rainier. Instead, they helped us focus on the best of what the Ramparts had to offer, enclosing a magnificent world all its own.

All in all, it's been perfectly wonderful to have the clouds back in the Pacific Northwest this summer.